How to Spend an Autumn Weekend in Ottawa, Ontario

How to Spend an Autumn Weekend in Ottawa, Ontario

Autumn is a magical time in Canada’s capital city. From the burgeoning café culture to the glorious fall colours and everything in between, there’s no shortage of ways to spend an autumn weekend in Ottawa. Here you’ll find the historic ByWard Market Square pavilion, seven of Canada’s nine national museums, the irresistibly beautiful Gatineau Park, and the former Carleton County Gaol turned HI Ottawa Jail Hostel. Did someone say culinary and cultural experiences, memorable outdoor adventures, and spooky ghost stories? Count me in! I spent three days in Ottawa on my eastward journey from Toronto to Montreal, and oh what a cozy time it was. So brew yourself a cup of herbal tea, snuggle up in that festive fall blanket, and let me share with you the highlights from my weekend in Ottawa, Ontario.

Take a culinary voyage through the ByWard Market.
Between the local farmers’ market and the many stands of artisans, not to mention over 600 unique businesses, there’s no better introduction to Ottawa’s culinary scene than the ByWard Market. Established in 1826, this is one of Canada’s oldest and largest public markets, and it’s open 363 days per year! No matter the weather, vendors line the streets with agri-food as well as arts and crafts, offering a unique experience for residents and visitors alike. I warmed my insides with a latte from the inviting ByWard Café, then devoured my first-ever BeaverTails pastry from the original BeaverTails stand. This iconic indulgence dates back to 1978 and has since grown to more than 140 locations worldwide, complete with vegan options and over 120 possible topping combinations.

Travel back in time at the Bytown Museum.
Situated in Ottawa’s oldest stone building on the Rideau Canal, the Bytown Museum provides a wonderful overview of the city’s rich history. I enjoyed wandering through the Permanent Gallery with the complimentary audio tour, which walked me through Ottawa’s emergence as Canada’s capital, from the lumber town of Bytown to the cosmopolitan city that you see today. Did you know that Ottawa is located on the borders of two provinces (Ontario & Quebec) and is a bilingual (English & French) city? Afterwards, I strolled along the Rideau Canal, Ontario’s only UNESCO World Heritage site. In the summertime, this waterway can be explored by kayaks, canoes, and pedal boats. In the wintertime, the frozen surface transforms into the largest skating rink in the world, a whopping 7.8 kilometres (4.8 miles) in length. Pretty cool, eh?

Venture inside the former Carleton County Gaol.
Better yet, stay there! HI Ottawa Jail is a jail-turned-hostel where guests can sleep in an authentic solitary confinement cell, measuring 3′ x 9′ with one single bed. Between the stone walls and iron doors, it’s truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience. If you prefer to stay in a more spacious room, you can choose from shared dorms as well as private double or twin cells. Either way, I highly recommend joining the free daily tour of death row and the gallows, as it provides an insight into the history of the Carleton County Gaol and the appalling living conditions faced by inmates. This is exactly what I love about Hostelling International Canada, that the organization helps travellers gain a greater understanding of people, places and cultures. What’s more, HI Canada makes it simple and affordable to backpack through the country, with 54 hostels from the Pacific to the Atlantic.

Warm up with a pumpkin spice latte… or several.
Grabbing a cup of coffee in Ottawa is more than a caffeine fix, it’s a way of supporting local businesses and independent coffee roasters. And it gets even better, because autumn is the season for pumpkin spice and everything nice! I visited one of the first coffee bars in Ottawa called Planet Coffee, a quirky store started by two coffee-loving friends in 1994. With a focus on coffee, baking, and conversation, everything is locally sourced, crafted with love, and served with care. Another favourite of mine was Bridgehead, a beloved local chain that works with small-scale farmers in global communities. In addition to being Fairtrade Certified, this Roastery and Coffeehouse sources most of their products from local farmers, from milk and cream to honey and eggs.

Meander around Parliament Hill and Major’s Hill Park.
As the political and cultural heart of the city, a weekend in Ottawa isn’t complete without visiting Parliament Hill. A number of special events are held here throughout the year, including carillon concerts, changing of the guard ceremonies, Canada Day festivities, and a Northern Lights sound and light show. While the Centre Block is currently undergoing a decade-long rehabilitation, you can still admire the three neo-Gothic-style federal government buildings from the outside. Plus you can enjoy free guided tours of the brand-new House of Commons and Senate of Canada Building. Just a few minutes’ walk from Parliament Hill, Major’s Hill Park is a beautiful green space overlooking the Ottawa River and the Ottawa Locks on the Rideau Canal. Sandwiched between the ByWard Market and a handful of museums and monuments, I enjoyed reading the interpretation panels along the winding pathways while being surrounded by the turning colours of fall leaves.

Experience fall foliage in Gatineau Park.
Located just 15 minutes from downtown Ottawa, Gatineau Park is a conservation and outdoor recreation park, managed by the National Capital Commission. With year-round activities and a number of heritage sites, it’s a must-do excursion in the glorious fall foliage. Just this year, Parkbus launched a pilot project that connects the city to select spots in Gatineau Park, namely Champlain Lookout, Pink Lake, MacKenzie King Estate, King Mountain Trail, and Philippe Lake. I joined for the latter, where I spent the day hiking along sandy beaches and exploring Lusk Cave, a geological phenomenon. This was my fourth trip with Parkbus, following three trips to British Columbia’s provincial parks last summer, and the service has been nothing short of amazing. If you’re looking for affordable transportation to the great outdoors from major cities in Canada, and wish to support a company that’s committed to sustainability and community-building, then I can’t recommend Parkbus enough.

Bring the outdoors in at the Canadian Museum of Nature.
Situated in the former Victoria Memorial Museum, the Canadian Museum of Nature allows visitors to get up close and personal with the country’s creatures and landscapes. That is, from the Fossil Gallery and the Mammal Gallery, to the Earth Gallery and – my personal favourite – the Arctic Gallery. This top-floor exhibition discusses the impacts of climate change and speculates about the future of the arctic, while defining the region geographically, culturally, botanically, and oceanographically. After reading about how the warmer atmosphere is creating new challenges for this fragile environment, I greatly fear for the plants and animals up north. Us humans really need to band together for the arctic’s survival, sooner rather than later. With that said, you can find some of my green travel tips here.

Go café hopping in and around Centretown.
On a lighter note, Ottawa is brimming with vegan and vegetarian eateries, many of which are scattered throughout the streets of Centretown. This is Ottawa’s downtown core, a neighbourhood that offers an abundance of green spaces and green places. Mad Radish, for example, operates under the slogan of ‘healthy food for busy people’, combining high-end culinary techniques with quality grains, proteins, and vegetables. I tried the butter cauliflower curry, a lighter take on butter chicken that’s made with cauliflower and potatoes, brown rice and mixed greens, and crunchy lentils. I also went to Lollo Salads & Coffee, a ‘feel good all day salad spot’ with gourmet salads, fine Italian coffee, and healthy snacks. There I gobbled up the avo-tempeh multigrain sandwich in approximately two minutes, it was that good.

Become cultured at the National Gallery of Canada.
Named one of Canada’s most impressive landmarks, the National Gallery of Canada is known for both its architecture and its unique collection of art. Since being established in 1880, the collection has grown from a single 19th-century landscape to more than 75,000 works of art, with a focus on Canadian and Indigenous pieces. Today, the mission statement in part reads, “The collection opens the way for appreciation of the finest in artistic expression: The works of art reveal the past, celebrate the present, and probe the future.” As such, the National Gallery of Canada aims to be ‘art-centered, generous and accessible to all’. For more art and culture, be sure to stop by the National Arts Centre and the Ottawa Art Gallery as well.

With ♡, Julia Elizabeth

A special thank you to HI Ottawa JailHI Canada, Ottawa Tourism, and Parkbus for collaborating with me on this post. As always, all opinions are my own.

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