A Literature Lover’s Guide to Bergen, Norway

A Literature Lover’s Guide to Bergen, Norway

Named a UNESCO World Heritage City in 1979 as well as the European City of Culture in 2000, Bergen has a lot to offer for the culturally-inclined and literary-minded. It is here that Henrik Ibsen worked as resident dramatist and stage director of the Norwegian Theatre from 1851 to 1857, followed by Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson in the same capacity from 1857 to 1859. It is also the birthplace of world-renowned authors, composers, essayists, musicians, novelists, playwrights, and poets such as Ludvig Holberg, Edvard Grieg, Gunnar Staalesen, Frode Grytten, and Tomas Espedal. For these reasons and more, it’s quite perplexing that it took me until now to visit the so-called ‘city of seven mountains’, yet rather fitting that an invite to the Bergen International Literary Festival is what ultimately brought me out to Norway’s southwest coast.

LitFestBergen is a four-day event featuring a 50-50 split of fiction and non-fiction works from a 50-50 mix of international and Norwegian authors. Hosted at the Bergen House of Literature, this year’s program featured 100 guests from 25 nations, united by one common theme: kvardag. This Norwegian word directly translates to ‘everyday’, but also means ‘the ordinary’. As such, the festival addressed how political structures interact with people’s ordinary lives – from the indigenous minority in Sápmi and the racial segregation in South Africa, to the repressive regimes in Kashmir, Hong Kong, and Russia. Politics aside, the speakers discussed a variety of social and cultural issues too – from female menstruation and jail confinement, to substance abuse and religion. Before I delve into my festival experience, however, I’d like to share with you the breathtakingly beautiful train journey that got me there.

The Bergen Railway, popularly termed Bergensbanen, is a scenic 371-kilometre long stretch between Hønefoss and Bergen, though most passengers board the train in Oslo. The westbound track follows Hallingdalen up to Hardangervidda, where it reaches its highest point of 1,237 metres just west of Finse. From here, it descends to Myrdal and follows Raundalen down to Voss, then runs along the fjords to Bergen. I’ve expressed my love for train travel many times in the past, usually in the context of sustainability, and Bergensbanen not only reaffirmed that love, but greatly enhanced it. Moreover, the railcar is a fruitful work environment for those engaged in literary pursuits, as there’s no better way to ward off writer’s block than to gaze out the window at the ever-changing landscapes. All in all, it was a delightful and productive way to commence my exploration of Bergen’s literary scene. 

Back to the bookish festivities, my experience at LitFestBergen was both unique and enriching – laughs were had, tears were shed, walls came down. I sat in on a conversation between American Mary Ruefle and Mexican Gloria Gervitz, who shared their thoughts on blood, sweat, and writing – a.k.a. menopause. I listened to Bjørgvin prison teacher Annette Mattsson and Bergen prison librarian Eivind Riise Hauge, as they explored the topic of everyday and literary confines. I heard Penny Johnson discuss animals in the context of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict – from illegal cows and detained donkeys, to beautiful camels and hunted hyenas. I learned about the development of South African fiction, non-fiction, and literary criticism since the fall of apartheid from critic and University of Cape Town academic Hedley Twidle. And that, of course, only constitutes a small fraction of the event.

Aside from ceremonies and performances, seminars and writing courses, lectures and night chats, I found creative inspiration in the city of Bergen itself. I took the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen and toured the Ibsen exhibition at the University Museum of Bergen with my handy Bergen Card, courtesy of the Bergen Tourist Board. I strolled through the tranquil grounds of the Bergenhus Fortress and wandered around Bryggen, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is very much a part of Bergen’s cultural heritage. Then there’s Carte Blanche, the Norwegian National Company of Contemporary Dance, and the Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra, one of the world’s oldest orchestras. Plus Troldhaugen, the former home of composer Edvard Grieg, and KODE, a unique combination of art museums and more composer homes – namely Ole Bull and Harald Sæverud. This lively cultural scene, together with the vibrant literary community, truly makes Bergen a haven for literature lovers.

Last but not least, Bergen’s well-established café culture lends itself to all sorts of literature-related activities – I read at Solros, wrote at Godt Brød, and people watched at Amalies Hage… a guilty pleasure (mostly) all artists and creatives share. Solros brands itself as ‘the independent bakery in Bergen’, using heritage grains and traditional baking techniques to create wholesome and nutritious organic sourdough bread, plus many other delicious pastries and buns. Godt Brød was founded in Bergen back in 1995 and has since taken Norway by storm, opening more than a dozen locations to date, each one cozier than the next. Amalies Hage is situated on the ground floor of the Bergen Public Library, which makes for an inherently bookish atmosphere, and the food is absolutely divine. All things considered, Bergen is an ideal playground for cultural explorations as well as literary endeavours.

With ♡, Julia Elizabeth

A special thank you to LitFestBergen and Visit Bergen for collaborating with me on this post. As always, all opinions are my own.

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8 Comments

  1. Marta Engevik Fjæreide
    August 18, 2020 / 02:00

    I live in Bergen and I was at Litfest Bergen and participated and won the semifinale of the Norwegian championship of slampoetry. I must say even though I’ve lived here my whole life, I learned a lot of new facts by reading your blogpost! Thank you for reminding me that I am lucky to live here and reminding me of the many beautiful aspects of Bergen!

    • August 27, 2020 / 12:07

      Congratulations Marta, how exciting and well deserved I’m sure! Thanks for reading my blog post and for leaving your lovely comment, Bergen is a beautiful city to call home 😊

  2. May 5, 2020 / 12:03

    Beautiful pictures! And I loved the peek into Bergen 🙂
    I just discovered your blog and I am so glad that I did.

    • May 5, 2020 / 12:38

      Thanks so much! I hope you will continue to enjoy my blog 😊

  3. February 28, 2020 / 10:33

    Hi! Thank you for that nice blog about the Bergen! Your blog is probably one of the most detailed one I’ve ever read! Your photos are gorgeous! Thanks!

    • March 2, 2020 / 18:38

      Aw thank you, Victoria! Happy to have you here 🤗

  4. February 12, 2020 / 19:24

    Great post! Thanks for sharing

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